Unfortunately - I've only done mine as a new car owner, to break the factory seated bolts - so they can be removed, the hub inspected and if needed an Anti-seize compound placed on the seating surface to prevent seizing at a later time if the hub ever needed to be replaced.
I learned a hard lesson one year from a previous vehicle - and when the hub failed, it required a considerable level of replacement parts that were part of the rear plate that supports both the hub, and the brakes and also affects alignment.
The bearing failure was inevitable - over 100,000+ miles - you're on borrowed time - and also with the age of the hub and its seals and integrity. These hubs - you'll find - are not painted nor are they given any care for waterproofing or otherwise a paint job so they don't rust. Which in itself - the seal of the bearing is one thing - the lifetime of the bolts and their seating surfaces to the main backing plate - are a concern for anyone owning a vehicle of any older vintage.
- you don't get the OEM parts when the vehicle is no longer made and the line it had, has long since been sunset.
These bolts used may have a tapered seat and have an external "star" (torx - E12) head - so they become very unique for the purposes of holding the backing plate to the rear mounting plate, which that assembly is part of the wishbone axle and crossmember support framework.
Now before anyone flames me over that use of a Anti-seize - then they must also face the realization that the whole rear assembly plate that holds not just the hub, but the brake and the backing plate will have to be replaced as well.
I would say no more than 100n (newtons) certainly no more than 30ft/lbs.
But you do want clean surfaces free of dirt so the anti-seize can form a seal around the perimeter and the bolt threads should get something too.